Zakopane: Two and a half hours south of Krakow, land of skiers, strange cheeses, the Tatra Mountains, lots of snow, and exclamations of ‘omg! gingerbread house!”
Avoiding the alright-but-dull-and-touristy centre of the town, The outskirts are dotted with branches of the Tatra Museum, all in old wooden houses such as this one:
From the Museum of the Zakopane Style – Inspirations, a house in the traditional Highlander Style. Everything has that lovely ‘trying really hard and being genuinely beautiful, but at the same time slightly wonky’ endearing feel about it.
Stanisław Witkiewicz‘s head. He’s pretty ace. All round talented fellow, founder of the Zakopane Style (parallel to Arts and Crafts, the same kind of appreciation of materials and craftsmanship), father to Stanisław Ignacy Witkiewicz (whose work I keep seeing everywhere and it’s made me pick up pastels again)
We went up to Gubałówka Hill because a) we felt like we should go to a tall point and b) we got to go up a funicular railway. Yeah!
Oscypek is a very salty cheese that looks like bread to the extent that you’ll buy lots for lunch then realise you’ve a huge bag of cheese and nothing else, then you’ll eat too much of said cheese and feel rather ill.
Next weekend: the four mounds of Krakow, synagogues and socialist realism.